Vineyard magazine ventured beyond the UK to sample some of the wines, attractions and stunning countryside of Lazio, Italy at the splendid Vini d’Abbazia event. Malcolm Triggs outlines the highlights of an enjoyable three day trip.
Henry VIII has much to answer for. A weekend visit to the Abbey of Fossanova and the surrounding Latina countryside to sample some amazing Italian wines, all with links to the region’s abbeys, highlighted the folly of the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century.
The King’s assault on the Catholic monasteries, priories, convents and friaries destroyed a huge amount that was of cultural, artistic and architectural significance and, as the trip to Latina proved, could have been put to good use by today’s winemakers.
Sampling a fine Italian wine, made from Lazio’s signature Cesanese grape and bottled locally, in the cloisters of the stunning Abbey of Fossanova in Priverno, was a rare treat that highlighted the close link between place and taste expressed in skilfully made wine.
The abbey, one of the most significant examples of Cistercian Gothic architecture in Italy, was built between the 12th and 13th centuries on the remains of an ancient Benedictine monastery, a couple of hundred years before Henry VIII ensured there would never be wine tastings at Battle, Bayham, Tintern or Byland Abbey.
This timeless setting was the venue for the fourth vintage of Vini d’Abbazia, a celebration of rare and historic wines from prestigious Italian and international wineries that was enjoyed by more than 4,000 visitors over three days. Cultural debates and themed masterclasses, held in the abbey’s stunning refectory, added to an event which celebrated rare and historic wines produced by more than 30 wineries linked to abbeys. In the words of the organisers: “This unique event in Italy celebrates the deep-rooted connection between monastic tradition and winemaking.”
A small food and wine ‘village’ outside the abbey itself complemented the main event, but Vini d’Abbazia was unashamedly about wine, its links with its location, its place in the history of Latina and, of course, the pleasure of drinking it. Unlike similar expositions – this magazine’s own Vineyard & Winery Show springs to mind – there were no machinery, equipment, professional or other supplier stands.
The event, conceived by journalist Rocco Tolfa, also features the French network Les Vins d’Abbeyes and is a masterpiece of cooperation, with numerous organisations coming together to promote not just the wine but the region as a whole.
It is held in partnership with Regione Lazio, ARSIAL, Camera di Commercio Frosinone Latina and the Comune di Priverno – in essence the local and regional councils, chamber of commerce and agricultural trade body.
The list of supporting organisations, technical and media partners and others involved in putting on Vini d’Abbazia would take another four or five paragraphs to go through, so instead, here’s the organisers take: “A land of biodiversity, ancient villages, and enduring heritage, the event is a collective effort to promote the region and strengthen Lazio’s identity as a destination for wine tourism.”
Chamber of Commerce president Giovanni Acampora said Vini d’Abbazia represented “a true team effort”, adding: “We must continue working together to build a high-quality cultural offer that encourages year-round tourism based on our unique local assets.”
Glorious weather and the splendid countryside around this predominantly horticultural region added to the weekend’s pleasure, while the journalists present were also treated to a visit to the world’s largest vine maze, a remarkably romantic garden, a chapel housing ancient frescos and one of the area’s best-known wineries.
The food was, of course, amazing, complementing the delicate but well-structured wines and highlighting the versatility of an equally fresh and joyful cuisine – and without a pizza to be seen.
While the late afternoon and early evenings of the three-day trip were spent sampling wines and attending masterclasses (supported by English interpreters over headphones) at the abbey in Priverno, the days allowed the visitors to sample some of the attractions of this remarkable area south east of Rome and close to the Parco Nazionale del Circeo and the beaches of Sabaudia.
Saturday began with a visit to Limito, the world’s largest vine maze, created in the Antoniana Park by Paulo Carpineti.
Laid out on a plateau 500 metres above sea level, the maze of Bellone and Nero Bueno grapes is surrounded by woods and adjacent to wild flower meadows that would net a UK farmer a small fortune in Sustainable Farming Incentive payments but in Lazio seem to be the norm – and attract no government subsidy. A massive swing and free range cattle add to the artistic feel of this somewhat other-worldly place.
The visit was followed by an al fresco (of course) lunch and wine tasting hosted by the Carpinetis, who produce 500,000 bottles of traditional method sparkling wine a year using Bellone grapes. Lunch was accompanied by a tasting of the family’s excellent Kius Extra Brut.
Sunday was an equally special day, with a visit to the Garden of Ninfa, where relatively unstructured planting made the most of ruins that had once been homes and other buildings but now form a romantic backdrop for flowers and plants.
The Cappella della SS Annunziata, home to frescoes thought to be from the 15th century was followed by a visit to another winery, the Cantina Sant’ Andrea, where exquisite food was paired with some stunning wines and set the group up for its final visit to the abbey for another evening of learning about, and tasting, the wines of Lazio.
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