London Wine Fair

Gosh, the London Wine Fair is an odd place to tour around these days. I remember back in the Eighties, this annual festival was the single most important wine event of the year, both here and abroad. Today, it is a mere shadow of its former self, not least because the spotlight has moved to the slick, glitzy events held in other major cities around the world, which seem to attract incredible crowds and exhibitors alike.

That said, the Hatch Mansfield set-up is exemplary, and the range of wines there alone is worth signing up for the London Wine Fair!

The English zone in 2024 was buzzy and popular. This year, it was sparse and a little depressing. I imagine the cost of renting a slot here is prohibitive for most English and Welsh wineries, not least because they all seem to open their wallets in September for the WineGB event. Perhaps WineGB should move its oft-problematic event wholesale to the London Wine Fair. It would undoubtedly increase traffic and serve as a fantastic showcase for international visitors to sample our exceptional wines. Either way, there was still a hardy band of wineries who bothered to rock up, and the wines were as enticing and impressive as anything else on tasting at the Fair.

I spoke to each standholder, and they were all putting on a brave face. I do hope they managed to pour their wines for enough interested parties to make their investment worthwhile.

I found a few delicious wines, such as the 2023 Nine Oaks Bacchus (£22.50, www.nine-oaks.co.uk), a newcomer yearning to find friends and delight people’s palates with its floral, crisp, pink grapefruit-tinged wine. 2024 Williams Family Wines Rosé (£20.00, www.williamsfamilywines.com) had their first outing at the Fair, and this wine, in particular, was a beauty brimming with energy and freshness. Made from Pinot Noir and Bacchus, it deserves to sell out fast on the back of being at such a large event. I pray it does.

This month’s column features some stunning discoveries from the Fair. And this takes me back to Hatch and their stellar custodianship of Domaine Evremond. It doesn’t get better than tasting this wine, poured by Patrick McGrath’s daughter, India, and standing next to the man himself. That is why one attends a wine fair, and if the organisers, prospective standholders, and visitors recognise this, perhaps the London Wine Fair will come alive again. At the very least, it ought to be showing the very best wines from our country to the world. Surely, that’s not too much to hope for.

NV Domaine Evremond, Classic Cuvée, Chilham, Kent

Approx. £54.00

I missed the launch of this wine. It was very well covered in the press, and judging by the fabulous list of stockists, it is already going well.

As you will no doubt already know, Domaine Evremond is a thrilling partnership between lifelong friends Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger (of Champagne fame) and Patrick McGrath MW (UK wine legend and founder of Hatch Mansfield). Their shared dream was to craft an exceptional sparkling wine in the wilds of the Kent countryside.

Ten years in the making, the results are even more beautiful and resonant than I could have ever imagined. The stakes were high, and these visionary gentlemen confounded the critics and nay-sayers, smashing it with their very first release; I cannot recommend it enough.

I tasted it a second time, a week after the Fair, with a group of non-wine trade, and they were collectively impressed. There is something intangible and extraordinary about this wine. The interwoven stories of the families involved, the terroir, the history behind the name (look it up), the patience required, and the singular pursuit of perfection have all resulted in a magical creation. Now they can breathe a sigh of relief as they plot their next release. Hats off to Domaine Evremond.

2023 Sandridge Barton, Don’t Feed the Ponies, Billy Field Blend Light Red

£21.50 www.sandridgebarton.com
£25.00 www.delli.market

The Sandridge Barton squad is a lively bunch! Laid back to the point of nearly falling over, and with an array of curios that keep one guessing, I can never predict if I will be in orbit or merely left scratching my head in disbelief when I taste their wines.

This year’s collection is the best yet, with 2022 Pinot Gris Single Barrel Series (£27.00, on sale at the end of June, www.sandridgebarton.com) a truly wondrous being. Old oak cradles the fruit beautifully, making this a hedonistic, bold, and gloriously detailed white.

2022 East Field Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Series (£35.00, www.bbr.com) brings a degree of attitude to the Pinot story, with moments of spicy oak offset by teasing bitterness, wicked stem inclusion, and topped with bold, juicy red cherry fruit.

My headliner is utterly stunning. Billy is made from Pinot Précoce, Pinot Noir and Madeleine Angevine. It is more of a dark rosé than a light red, and it is designed to be drunk chilled. This is a mind-bendingly refreshing wine that enchants the senses and tantalises your taste buds with its pristine PYO notes and pin-sharp finish. Make this incredible wine the soundtrack to your summer!

2023 Oastbrook, White Pinot Noir

Approx. £23.50

I was poured this wine blind by its creator, America Brewer, and I must admit to being stumped.

I know this portfolio pretty well and have always admired America and Nick’s passion and drive. They never put a foot wrong, with each wine bringing identity, flair and accuracy to the party. When the variety was revealed, I was surprised and delighted.

There is something curious and intriguing about this still Blanc de Noirs, and it requires a degree of attention and vinous experience to unravel its mysteries. The result is a wine with layers of discreet forest fruits and uncommon silkiness, and it leaves a halo of flavour that genuine white wines cannot hope to emulate. With a light touch of alcohol (11.5%), you might expect this to be a bright, tangy style of wine, but this is so far from the truth it is incredible.

By contrast, there is a luxuriousness here that brings traction, volume, and succulence, and this is why you must track it down. If I had only tasted this wine and its portfolio pals at the Fair, I would have been satisfied!

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