Nigel Akehurst visits J L Baxter & Son in Kent to meet third-generation grower and managing director Clive Baxter and learn more about their award-winning, fruit growing enterprise.
A new chapter at Amsbury Farm
In 2019, Kent fruit grower Clive Baxter decided to plant vines. After decades of growing apples and pears at J L Baxter & Son, the idea of producing wine on the family’s gently south-facing slopes near Maidstone offered both a challenge and an opportunity.
“I could see the fruit industry was under pressure,” he explained. “Labour costs, market consolidation – it made sense to diversify. When Balfour Winery approached us about planting vines, I thought, ‘why not?’”
Five years later, the Baxters’ wine label, Four Daughters, named after Clive and his wife Carol’s four girls, has already made its mark, winning gold for its debut Albariño at the 2022 Independent English Wine Awards.
Learning the craft
The first vines, mainly Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, followed by Albariño, went into the ground in 2019, with the first crop harvested in 2022. Most grapes are still sold under contract to Balfour, but a small batch is vinified separately by Defined Wine in Canterbury.
“I made 20 litres myself one year,” said Clive with a grin. “Same grapes, same yeast. My wife said it was only fit for cooking. The winemakers at Defined turned the same fruit into gold-medal wine. They’re magicians.”
He’s quick to credit the professionals. “Making great wine is 90% about the winemaker. Growing good grapes is the starting point, but what happens next is alchemy.”
On the vineyard side, the Baxters work closely with local contractors VineWorks, who have carried out vine planting and provide regular advice and guidance through their Viti-Scout package.
Measured growth and family involvement
The vineyard now spans around 45 acres, and Clive takes a cautious, long-term approach. “We’ve seen people plant without a business plan. It’s not just about romance. You need a clear route to market.”
All four of his daughters play an active role in the business, from managing social media accounts (@fourdaughters.wine on instagram and tiktok) to running vineyard tours and tastings. “It’s added a lovely social side,” said Clive. “People enjoy hearing the story; it’s a working farm, not a manicured estate.”
Balancing vines and apples
While the vines are flourishing, top fruit remains the backbone of the business. “Apples still pay the bills,” Clive smiled. “The vineyard complements what we do; it doesn’t replace it.”
With most of the grapes under contract, the enterprise provides both income stability and scope for creativity. “We’ve just broken even on the initial capital investment,” he said. “Now it’s onwards and upwards, though we’ve planted more, so perhaps sideways, too.”
Looking ahead
The next phase may include expanding their own-label wines and developing a small cellar-door experience at Amsbury Farm. “We’ve visited wineries all over the world,” said Clive. “The best advice we heard was: grow the grapes, make small batches, learn the craft and take your time.”
Four Daughters has already achieved what many new entrants only dream of; a medal-winning English wine rooted in genuine farming heritage. As Clive puts it: “I still love growing things, whether it’s apples or vines. Work’s never felt like a chore. When it’s your passion, it’s just life.”
